In partnership with La Roche-Posay.
I’m so often asked really specific questions about the skin (and, in this case, about very specific ingredients and what they can and cannot do for the skin), but given that I’m an educated consumer and not an expert, I insist on taking those questions to those who can correctly and ethically answer them for you. In this conversation I’m joined by pharmacist and Medical Communications Manager at L’Oréal Australia, Rachel McAdam. Rachel’s role sees her provide L’Oréal brands with insight into consumer skin health needs from a formulations perspective, so I thought she would be the perfect person to answer the questions YOU submitted on all things Vitamin B5.
In this extract from the Glow Journal podcast, Rachel answers your questions on Vitamin B5- from what it is and what it can actually do for the skin, through to the ideal percentage you should be looking for in your skincare, why we’re hearing so much about it in the leadup to winter, and exactly how and where you can work it into your skincare routine.
GLOW JOURNAL: We are seeing Vitamin B5 pop up a lot in skincare, so let’s start at the very top- what is vitamin B5?
RACHEL MCADAM: Let’s start with the chemistry of it. Vitamin B5 is a molecule. Its actual true name is called pantothenic acid, however, in skincare, we don’t see it as that- we see it as the panthenol version. It’s the stable version, and it allows it to actually absorb into the skin, get converted to pantothenic acid, which is the true B5, and that’s the active molecule in our skin. It’s very essential to our whole body’s function, and in the skin you’ll find it has very specific benefits.
What are the main benefits of Vitamin B5 and why should we use it?
Speaking on the skin in particular, Vitamin B5 has a few different benefits. Let’s, first of all, mention the one where it holds water. It’s got a humectant action, just like hyaluronic acid and just like glycerine. What makes it very special is that it’s also a very important player in something called the Krebs cycle. The Krebs cycle is the essence of our cellular metabolism, of our energy production. And so, because vitamin B5 is one of the key molecules required to start this cycle, it’s involved in cellular repair, cellular production of fatty acids, so its benefits end up getting converted to things like regeneration and fatty acid synthesis which is our barrier function. So it’s got multiple benefits, but if I was to sum it all up, I would say it’s got soothing, regenerative and hydrating benefits as the top three.
A listener writes in saying “I’m seeing people recommending B5 and saying things like ‘This is so great coming into winter.’ Why winter specifically?!”
In winter, our skin is definitely subjected to dryness. The atmosphere isn’t as humid. B5 is a great little ingredient to have to re-establish that moisture, not just through its water holding properties, but also its repair properties and its regenerative properties. So it’s a bonus to have it, but I think it’s something that can be used all year round, all seasons. In winter, it’s a bonus to have it.
Another listener asks “What percentage of Vitamin B5 is ideal in skincare?”
I feel like if you have 5%, you’re going to get the optimal concentration for all those benefits that I mentioned earlier. However, any percentage will offer the hydration and will probably offer, still, some of those cellular benefits, but I would aim for 5%.
One listener writes “Is there anyone who can’t benefit from B5, and are there any products or ingredients it can’t be used in conjunction with?”
I can’t imagine anyone that can’t [benefit from it]. As long as the raw material is pure and it’s formulated in the right way, then everyone should be able to tolerate it because it’s not really an acid or a base or anything irritating.
I think it works very well with a wide range of actives, because if you formulate it with something really strong, like retinol or hydroxy acids, it’ll actually counteract some of that irritative property that they might have. It will go very well with your vitamin Cs, and even more so with your niacinamide, because now you’ve got the powerhouse of vitamin B3 and vitamin B5 acting at a cell level. So I would say no, it’s such a well-tolerated, broad spectrum ingredient to have.
To listen to the full interview, subscribe to the Glow Journal podcast now on iTunes or Spotify
