Skin care can be confusing at the best of times, then you fall down a YouTube rabbit hole and find yourself watching a Korean 10 step beauty routine. With Korean beauty becoming increasingly popular in the Western world of late, it was only a matter of time before double-digit routines infiltrated the “cleanse, tone, moisturise” routine so many have grown accustomed to.
The majority of said 10 steps are self explanatory, however step five has become the subject one of my most frequently asked skin care questions- what is a facial essence? With so many Korean beauty innovations hitting our shores, why is this ancient elixir enjoying such a resurgence in modern skin care?
Facial essences, elixirs, treatment lotions… put simply, they’re a liquid designed to prepare your skin for serums and moisturisers post-cleanse. They’re fluid in their consistency, lending themselves to application with a cotton pad or pressed into the skin with the palms of the hands.
Given that toners serve an almost identical purpose, it can be difficult to differentiate between the two and to determine whether you really need both. Toners are more astringent than essences and they’re lighter in texture, so they work to remove and balance excess oil while ensuring any remnants of your cleanser are gone, while essences usually contain more hydrating benefits (as opposed to astringent) and soften the skin so it can better absorb your active products (serums and moisturisers). Think of your skin like a sponge- dry sponge won’t absorb moisture anywhere near as easily as a damp one. An essence is a happy halfway point between your toner and serum, combining the skin-prepping properties of your toner with the active ingredients and skin care benefits of a targeted serum.
SK II’s cult Facial Treatment Essence seems to be the most commonly referenced facial essence, given that the brand is steeped in heritage and works ancient Japanese ingredients and rituals into their products. Traditionally, Japanese women used rice wine or sake as a facial essence. Pitera, the key ingredient in SK II’s Essence is found in sake, and was discovered by observing the unusually youthful skin on the hands of Japanese sake brewers. This particular product served as my introduction to essences three years ago and is still a regular fixture in my skin care routine. Two other essences that I find to be equally as effective and that I now use on rotation with the aforementioned are The Essence by Tatcha (another contemporary brand steeped in Japanese history and a product that contains fermented rice) and The Treatment Lotion by La Mer.
Is an essence an essential? I’d argue no. Do I understand their purpose and use them regularly in my own routine? Yes. Do I see the benefits reflected in my own skin? Absolutely.
All of the products mentioned above were purchased with my own money and all views are, as always, entirely my own.
