The modern woman’s equivalent of colouring within the lines, lipstick can be intimidating. So many of us feel comfortable playing within the safe spectrum of nudes and peaches, and while these work for day wear, we run the risk on missing out on the fun of a deep, dark or bold lip colour.
The darker the lipstick the finer the margin for error, rendering a chocolate brown lip colour one of the most difficult to master without the right method. Feeling brave? These lip tips will work for every colour of the rainbow.
Your tool kit:
– A subtly brightening primer or light foundation (I opted for Kevyn Aucoin’s The Primed Skin Developer as I didn’t want to cover up our model’s skin)
– A lip scrub (my favourite is by French Girl Organics)
– A lip balm (I reach for Lanolips 101 Ointment more often than not)
– The lip colour of your choice (in this instance, Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment in Done It Again)
– A matching lip liner
I find the key to pulling off a truly bold lip is to pare it back with really fresh skin, so for this shoot I kept things as minimal as possible- no eye makeup at all, brushed out brows and clean, bright skin.
Preparing the lips is key here, particularly if you’re using dark or matte lip colours as these work to accentuate and cling to any dry skin. For this shoot I used a dark, matte lip colour to show how well this technique can work. I gently scrubbed the lips in circular motions, then used a balm as I would any skin primer. As I was using a liquid lipstick, I applied the colour using the provided applicator (Nars do a nice one), however had I been working with a solid lipstick I’d have opted for a brush rather than applying direct from the bullet. The trick here comes when you apply the liner- I like to apply the lip liner after the lipstick to tidy up my work around the edges. This means I can apply the lipstick within the natural lip line, rather than right on it, then extend that shape out with the liner which I find easier for detail work. I apply lip liner sparingly- I want the cupid’s bow and the very centre of the bottom lip to be quite precise, then I like the rest of the lip colour to very, very softly feather out. I love makeup to look slightly undone and worn in, and this ensures your lipstick still looks fresh and modern rather than agonised over and almost cartoon-esque.
Photographer: Melissa Cowan
Model: Cate at Vivien’s
Makeup: Gemma Watts
